Sunday, January 28, 2007

Boarder Bluffs, Ghost Valley 06/?

I took this when we reached the car on the way home. An inpending storm on the way. This is a colour picture and was taking at about 4:00pm. in the spring/summer.

Hey troop, Adam, Alison and Charity.
????
The Real Big Drip a WI 6+ still in shape in the spring.
Adam, Charity and I with "The Snooky Doo" Ahnah in the background.
Thirsty Ahanh? Sharing my H2O with my dog.
We are heading to the small cliffband at the bottom of the big one. The Boarder Bluffs.
Beautiful place. Rock in summer and Ice in winter.
Going up...
Hi Beav. your so pritty.
The gang taking a rest.
Wicked Wanda another ice climb in the area. It's aWI 4+ I can almost lead that.
Leading the route for the others to top rope on.
Taking a look...
What form ... Haha.
I don't look happy here but trust me I am !!!
Adam attentively belaying. Thanks dude.
The climb is to the tree at the top. It was agood climb ,fun but not to challenging.
This guy was all messed up ! It was his first day out and it showed...Ha ha lol
Hangloose brah da.
Sneaky sneaky.
Flaking out the rope and had a knot in it. best catch tose on the ground.
Great picture of Adam. he had fun.
Double vision.
The Snooky DOOOOOOOOOOOO. What a ham.

Grassi Lakes 05/07


Dave , Kokko and I went for a day of craging at Grassi Lakes. We saw a Mama Bear and her Cub on they way up and down. Beautiful animals !!
Coming down from leading.
David and Kokko.

It's anice spot with a great view of Canmore Ab, bellow. The falls freeze in the wiinter and I have climbed them then.

Wednesday, January 24, 2007

The Climbers Vocabulary

Jive... ya dig?.

--M as in M5+ stands for mixed as in ice and rock in the route. Hardest mixed climb, M12.

--WI6 stands for waterfall ice, a pure ice route. Hardest WI8? / 7+.

--The numbers behind them are to grade the degree of difficulty. The higher the number the harder and a + or - just defines that grade more so.

-- Rock grades go, 5.5 through 5.10, at which it adds an a,b,c,d. to each number higher to define it more, 5.10a,b,c,d / 5.13a,b,c,d. The highest rock grade 5.15.

--Commmitment Grade are in Roman Numerals grade Difficulty of approach, descent, length, objective hazard and sustained nature of the climbing.
-- I ) a short, easy climb close to car. No avalanche danger, easy descent.
-- II) 1 or 2 pitches of climbing close to car, No avy danger, easy descent.
-- III) Multi-pitch route at low evevation or 1 pitch with long approach 1 hr + and/or no trail. Several + hours of climbing, most of day to do, Avy danger, winter travel skills, descent by rappeling and/or placing your own anchers.
-- IV) Remote, multi-pitch at elevation, subject to weather patterens, objective hazards and or avy danger, several hour + approach, descent may be on hazardous terrain and/or build your own anchers.
-- V) A long climb, competent party, all day, high mountain face or ending above tree line, sustained climbing, avy danger, objective hazards, long involved approach, high level of climbing experience, winter skills needed to climb safely, descent by multi-rappels from built anchers.
--VI) A long climbing route, waterfall, alpine face/ ridge, very sustained climbing, only best do it in a day, ski and/or glacier approach with a difficult, tiring descent, High objective hazards, higher avy danger, falling seracs, high altitude, possable white out, crevasses and/or remote, a high fitness and experience level needed to climb safly.

-- Ice climbing grades. Pure ice.
-- WI 1) a frozen lake.
-- WI 2) a short pitch of ice with up to a short 80* section, good Pro and anchers.
-- WI 3) Sustained ice up to 80*, good ice, must be able to place pro well, short sections steeper, good resting places.
-- WI 4) A sustained full pitch of off-vertical or shorter vertical (10-25 meters) ice. technical ice, harder to place Pro, run-out between resting places.
-- WI 5) A long strenuous pitch, maybe full rope length (60meters) of 88*-90* ice with few if any rests. Or short (20-40meters) on bad, fetureless ice, good Pro take's excellent technique.
-- WI 6) A full 50 meter pitch dead vertical ice or shorter, nasty proportions. Few if any resting sites, Pro is put in on front points or in awkward positions. Ice quality is variable technical climbing, Technique and efficiency are at a premium.
-- WI 7) A full pitch of vertical ice, thin and or overhanging, technical colume of dubious adhesion. Both diverse and cerative techniques to climb and find protection (pro). Very physically and emotionally draining pitch.
-- WI 8) Worldwide nobody has climbed one but they are out there and maybe someday will be climbed. Climbing knows no limits.
-- X added to a route grade means, fragile, possable collapes while climbing, run-outs usually come along to.
-- R added for thin = runout and or bad Pro not worth trusting.

-- Mixed Grades use alot of rock grading in it, so it is more of a compairison to rock but with crampons and ice tools in your hand and on your feet. So not similar but similar FEEL grading.
-- M4 = 5.8, M5 = 5.9, M6= 5.10, M7= 5.11, M8= 5.11+/5.12-, M9= 5.12, M10= 5.12+/13-, M11= 5.13, M12= 5.13+ .

--"Pro" means protection that you use to tie yourself to the face/route/mountain your climbing.

--"Trad" is to climb with traditional pro or gear. Nuts, Tri-Cams, Hex's, Pitons, Cam's. No bolts.

-- "Gear" is the stuff named above nuts, pitons... it goes in the rock to make anchers.

--"Sport Climb" is a bolted route or has bolts at the top for a top rope system.

--"Alpine Climbing" is a climbing route in a alpine environment possibly with a summit to obtain. More remote and usually with more objective hazards to deal with. More committing than a sport climb at a crag.

--"Crag" is a spot that is close and usually bolted for sport climbing.

--"Pumped" is when your arms feel like they are going to explode from the climb. A long and or hard, overhanging or technical climb will do it to you.

--"Binner" or carabinner are the metal clips that attach's you to the safety system and the safety system to the climb, rock, ice, tree, whatever.

-- "Bubba" aka Barry Blanchard, Canada's leading Mountaineer. Any guy with a bagel named after him needs mentioning. Plain bagel, Peanut butter, Banana.

--"Onsite" is to climb a route first time, walk up and climb it.

--"Red point" is to climb a route after some, a few, a lot, one attempts at it.

-- To "Sandbag" A route is to slowly try and get the moves of the climb while hanging on the rope a lot. Start, fall, work the move, fall, repeat until your up or keep trying.

-- A "Slog" scree, talus, snow. A LONG haul, walk, hike... usually with a heavy pack. Energy sapping, a lot of work with little reward sometimes but sometime it's worth every slipping, tripping, sliding, heavy step.

-- A"Whipper" is a big fall on lead. A run out route, your pro came out (bad placement), belayer let out too much slack/ fell asleep. Can be fun or shit yourself.

-- A "Run Out" is a climb that doesn't have many place's to place a piece of "Pro" making long sections of climbing to do above your last placement. The cause of the above. Not fun.

--

Haffner Creek 07/01/21 // Attempt @ D.T. Motor Inn


Goodmorning! At the trailhead at... early. Going to David Thomson Motor Inn. A long and fat (lots of ice /thick) route of WI3. It just has a long approach up and over a ridge and up the otherside of the valley to the base of the climb.
Beautiful morning on Yamnuska! Got to love the contrast. I made it to the bottom of the right hand ridgeline and saw our day and thought.... I work tommorro, I worked yesterday, I'm way to burnt for this one right now.
But we got some great views in the morning sunlight. This is me.

Mark. We decided to go to Haffner Creek instead. Where am I pointing???? Maybe Haffner??
At Haffner now, finally.


Mark lead the ice and did a good job, with great form.
Toping out on his first lead on double ropes.
Ya don't stand here long!


Ah... mark !?

Where's uncle Josh?


I went second on top rope to set up a two ropes one on an ice route and one a mixed route.














The new Petzl Nomic icetools are sweet!









We climbed an M8- route that starts with some fun moves out of a roof and up where you see us.
Mark.

Sunday, January 21, 2007

Haffner Creek 06/12


Spent the day with Lynnette Lo getting some great pointers, much thanks to her. We mainly climbed ... ? something Half a Gronk M5+. I met Rob Owens this day and didn't know it for about a month ! Nice guy. When I was watching the '05 Ouray comp video on Petzl's site. He hed never seen a pound in ice pro/screw, I'm guessing that was on a rack. "I like options in the mountains" was my reply but it really rarely comes out.