Athabasca via Silverhorn 08/06

"Hang loose bra". Flyin Hawaiian
The Route leads left then up the ramp to the col..

The North glacier icefall .

We made good time up th glacier and the ramp.

Little trail.
The Burgshrund/ cravass I post holed into, full leg!

Above the "Burg" steep eh!
The North Face route is up to the weakness in the rock band. I will be back for it.
The Hourglass route's start bottom left to middle top.
Dam hippies!!!!!! (above)

Lots of pictures of Scott in tow.

I never placed a screw untill I found a crevass up by the seracs and waited for Scott.

I chopped a small ledged at this time.

This group was at the bottom of the route when we left the truck. We had a late start, at 7:30 we left the truck. Still we made good time to the seracs on the route.






This is where Scott wasn't feeling to good. He said he had tingling in the mouth and noise area and his lower arms were weak. He was having a hard time placing one of his tools and hyperventalting. To high to fast? AMS? I made a belay station, chopped a bigger ledge for him and talked to him for a bit. He had some H2O and calmed down a bit now in the relitive safety of a belay. It was getting late... too late to be where we were. The ice face was now a 6'' soft snow over rotton ice face and I didn't want to be here much longer. I asked him if he could climb the next 300 ft as after that the steepness lessens and the rocks were closer. He wanted me to leave him and I refused. I talked to him and said we could pitch the rest out if he wanted. He liked the idea but... I asked for his 2 screws and he had forgoten them in the truck. Soooo this sucks right now and ...??? Ok, I leave one screw ( this is all mental at this point, as if one of these would hold a fall) and he belays me up over the seracs and I place our other screw. I had 2 ,as I always do, and thought we would solo the route. Up Scott came and at this point it was taking way to long, it was way to late and we needed to move. So when Scott got to me I ask how he was feeling and what he thought about just soloing on as it's faster and the screw"s" wouldn't hold a fruit basket in this stuff. So thats when we traversed the top of the face to reach the scree on the right hand side of the Silverhorn. Where we had a good rest and ate. I asked if he was coming to the top and he said... maybe?... I said see you there.

Traverse to the scree.

Summit ridge.
Be happy Scott were safe on the the summit and all is good.

Got to have one of these.

Robson S Face Attempt 08/06

Scott and I made a go at the South side of Robson via the "ledges" route. I felt good the whole way up and down but was beat by the time we made it back to the car. We had made good time up to where the chains are but it is to bad we found them after being off route for 4 hours. At the end of the bushwhack of death, on the way up at where you go left to the chains across a muddy slid. The well beaten path leads you right at the black cliff band. BAD! I found a bolt and thought that it was where the chains could have been. Scott had troubles with this part as he is not a rock climber. We tried everything to get us and the bags up but it was taking its toll. We decided to go down and around to the Kain Face which was more suited to Scott's comfort and skill level. On the way down I found the real chains and so up we went. To Scott's dislike might I add, dam young guys. We were about 600 m below the hut and Scott was showing sings of fatigue so we stopped to chat. It was a turn around er again. When we got to Kinny Lake we went back to the truck for better sleep and make another go at it the next day. When we woke it was Tokyo town !!!! I love Japanese people. We slept on the grass at the visitors center and woke to Japanese tourists taking picture's of Robson. We had lunch and talked about the plan and Scott really didn't want to go back in to the other side. The plan was now to go climb in the Columbia Icefield area. I will be going back this summer '07 for this route and/or I have been looking at the Wishbone Arete or the BIG E. Ridge stay tuned for more...
A clearing in the " Bushwhack of Death"
Off route, but why the bolt? Alti. route? I will go back to see

The "real" chains was LEFT remember this.

BIG AIR bellow!!! oh the muddy slide is here.
Tired Josh... Up the chains.



Tired Scott...

Good morning Tokyo! Where is Robin W. I know wrong place. LOL
The route takes the slant left in the face.

Junkyards soloing WI3 06/12

Mark, Dan and I want to play in the Canmore Junkyards. Mark forgot the rope so we soloed around. I wanted to climb a mixed line there but no rope no mix.

Happy boy!

No ropes,

No pro,

No problem !

I lead the Scotish Gully a few days be for this. Thats the top of it in the next pic. Top left.

Grotto Canyon WI4 / M6+

Spent a great afternoon on His and Hers. My first Mixed lead on the route to the left of Hers M6+ . I was in good company with Mark, whom I've climbed with, and a friend of his Dan. Like I said good company. I didn't feel the ice was in the shape I wanted it to be in for a first WI4 lead. So I lead the mixed route with a rest on the 3rd to last bolt before the ice transfer. The ice was very thin at this spot so I lowered off. Know your limits and climb to live. There was an older female ex- guide for Yam. who lead His and nicely. She was pulling her ropes to leave so we pulled ours up and topped it. It was nice to try some thin ,brittle, scary shit on top rope, not so scary at all.

Hey Dan.

Johnston Canyon WI3 06/12

Well this was a day to remember!!! An American guy, I've lead WI5, nice new gear, I got one, done one, had one Guy. Failed to lead a 15m WI3, dropped his tool WITH leash, got Elvis, had know idea how to use double ropes, almost severed my rope. It gets better wait. Almost, could have dropped me from the top because he couldn't lead it, so I did. He had takin me off belay!!!! I had my Dasiy done up, call to be lowered ..... call again..... " your NOT on belay" comes from a climber on the climb 60 m to our left. What is "guy" doing? So I pull the ropes and yup not on belay. I shake my head, clear it up with him and down I came to give " guy" a tonge lashin about safety. "Guy" Said it was a style thing. My reply was " Safety is no style thing"....... and a bunch more. I was pissed off ! This "guy" took it so like.... so what ever it ws unreal. Again, he knew a way that a grand wizard ....To say the least "guy" and I didn't get along and the Robson trip I planned for 6 months, I canceled, on the spot. I have been looking at Wishbone or the big E. Ridge on Robson for this summer so I will go back with ????

REACH !!!

This is the lower falls. Very thin with h2o still flowing behind and out from below.
All the dagers still to young to climb. Well the left could be started on the inside and move out on front up higher.





goofin

This is "GUY". My poor rope

Bears Spirit 12/02/06 WI4 / M7+

This was my first " mixed" climb, it was Hoccus Poccus an M7 + right beside Bears Spirit WI 4. We climbed that as well... well Lynnette Lo did, I tried... and she begain the lesson. As it turns out I'm a much better mixed climber than an ice climber. Have to work the ICE!!! I think because of coming from a rockclimbing back ground I found it much easier to relate and found that my techniqe was MUCH better on rock than ice.

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