Thin Air & A Toque: Athabasca via Silverhorn 08/06

"Hang loose bra"

. Flyin Hawaiian

The Route leads left then up the ramp to the col..

The North glacier icefall

We made good time up th glacier and the ramp.

Little trail.

The Burgshrund/ cravass I post holed into, full leg!

Above the "Burg" steep eh!

The North Face route is up to the weakness in the rock band.

I will be back for it.
The Hourglass route's start bottom left to middle top.

Dam hippies!!!!!! (above)

Lots of pictures of Scott in tow.

I never placed a screw untill I found a crevass up by the seracs and waited for Scott.

I chopped a small ledged at this time.

This group was at the bottom of the route when we left the truck. We had a late start, at 7:30 we left the truck. Still we made good time to the seracs on the route.

This is where Scott wasn't feeling to good. He said he had tingling in the mouth and noise area and his lower arms were weak. He was having a hard time placing one of his tools and hyperventalting. To high to fast? AMS? I made a belay station, chopped a bigger ledge for him and talked to him for a bit. He had some H2O and calmed down a bit now in the relitive safety of a belay. It was getting late... too late to be where we were. The ice face was now a 6'' soft snow over rotton ice face and I didn't want to be here much longer. I asked him if he could climb the next 300 ft as after that the steepness lessens and the rocks were closer. He wanted me to leave him and I refused. I talked to him and said we could pitch the rest out if he wanted. He liked the idea but... I asked for his 2 screws and he had forgoten them in the truck. Soooo this sucks right now and ...??? Ok, I leave one screw ( this is all mental at this point, as if one of these would hold a fall) and he belays me up over the seracs and I place our other screw. I had 2 ,as I always do, and thought we would solo the route. Up Scott came and at this point it was taking way to long, it was way to late and we needed to move. So when Scott got to me I ask how he was feeling and what he thought about just soloing on as it's faster and the screw"s" wouldn't hold a fruit basket in this stuff. So thats when we traversed the top of the face to reach the scree on the right hand side of the Silverhorn. Where we had a good rest and ate. I asked if he was coming to the top and he said... maybe?... I said see you there.