Thin Air & A Toque

Well overdue update...

2009-11-11T19:45:00.014-07:00

First off I would like to thank all the Servicemen and woman, past and present, on this Remembrance Day for there sacrifice, bravery and service. No words could ever express the gratitude you all deserve. Thank you.

It has been brought to my attention that people have been reading this blog, and to my astonishment, taking interest in it as well. To put things in perspective, this blog was meant for sharing with my family and friends back home what I have seen and LEARNED out here in the Rockies... Although I am aware that this blog is posted online for anyone to see I never intended this to be a source of education for others, nor do I think I am an authority on climbing in any way, shape or form.

So for those who don't know me but read my blog here is a little bit about me so you might understand me and my blog better. I am not a writer or guide so take this with a grain of salt. I am a well trained plumber and a good one.

I have made mistakes in so many areas but have learned from every outing in the mountains I have embarked on. I read books, MCR & Avy reports all year, take course's and try to climb with those that are much better than I so I can absorb from them the knowledge that they have acquired over their years. I have never been in an avalanche, but I have skied for 29 years, done a TON of back country, will ski most anything, hold my CSIA ski instructors level 2 and I competed for 5 years up to a J1 level. I do not have pro avy training but have knowledge of snow pack, route selection and recreational training...a bit dated I admit, but non the less its knowledge and I am always pursuing more....

I have rock climbed for 18 years, I'm no Sonnie Trotter but I can dream ... I do lead 11a trad on granite and have NEVER decked or had any sort of major incident while rock climbing. I was part of one of Canada's first junior climbing teams and placed very well in competition with on site's of 11c and red points of 12c/d all this at 16 and 17 years of age in the late 90's. Injury brought an end to my competing and I still, to this day, deal with the injury but it is better with proper training and rest. I have climbed in Smith Rock (highly recommend it) up to 10c/d on site sport on funky rock that I had never climbed on before. In Squamish I have climbed 10 d on site and 11a trad, this summer I sent the Grand Wall Lite with 5 hangs total and lead Parry's lay back at 11a, a stiff 11a. I'm working on 12 b sport in Squamish and I'm half way up Black Slabith V7 or 13-. I consistently climb in the 5.10/11 range on different rock in different places.

I have been ice climbing for about 6 years, but the first few were hard with few trips out due to a lack of climbing partners, and even still now goods one are still hard to come by. I lead the first 11 of 13 ice climbs I'd ever done, #13 was Prof. Falls WI4. I have lead WI4/4+ and not just once. I am an average climber but pursue the goal of WI5 /WI6; a very achievable goal for me and I have no desire to climb anything above that level on ice. I have lead M5 (low I know) but I feel very strongly that I could push that level with time and miles spent on mixed. I'm not a gifted ice climber by any means, I have to work hard and get miles. I'm much stronger on rock, it comes much more natural to me.

I have been involved in one major incident ice climbing and watched someone deck hard as I belayed. I had the gear I needed to help stave off hypothermia for him and we were very lucky to have others in the area to help. Without them things could or would have been much worse. I learned a ton that day. I was calm under pressure, I reacted properly, did my best with my first aid training and managed my injured friend. Radial pulse after laying on the ice for well over 5 hours, job well done. I have since taken a week long, 8 hr a day high angle rope rescue course, not a rock rescue course but it was taught by firemen for use at my job in gas plants and was very extensive. I plan to further my training in avy, first aid, rescue and anything I feel will help keep me and my partners safer while out climbing.

I have thought about being a guide.... an ACMG guide, and that thought passed with knowledge gained. I admire the people that have dedicated and sacrificed there time and life in the pursuit of a guiding career. That being said, guides and climbers of all abilities are not born nor are they a heavenly gift (although it may seem that way in times of need) but ask me, a plumber, to save your house from a major flood that might destroy a large part of it or gas leak that could kill you and your family and I might seem like a heavenly gift too. ALL guides and climbers started somewhere, made mistakes and learned from them, as do ALL climbers of ALL levels. Admittedly some mistakes are fatal and for the climbers who have lost their lives I mourn you and try to learn. I'm thankful that nothing has happened to me, it could have in the past and still could in the future.

This is not at all a pot shot at guides nor do I mean to undermine what they do, it is dangerous, they are very well trained, and ACMG guides are the best.

I can be very ambitious, but I think that is a strength. I have goals, some lofty, but if you don't have them why do you wake up in the morning...? I also climb by words from my "Michael Jordan", Barry Blanchard who has said something along the lines of "I have turned back from more summits than I have ever made".
I'm not sure where I heard it but I'm pretty sure I did. I learn every time I go out, be it what I did right, wrong, or other, and I go home a better climber...I do get home and hope to continue to do so for a long time to come.

I am a student of the mountains and will always be one. One can never know all there is to learn and that is part of my passion towards climbing. I find it sad that when I have posted of mistakes, errors in judgment, lack of knowledge, skill or experience that instead of getting constructive criticism, corrected, or steered in the right direction, I got criticized, judged and mocked by people. Some I'm sure are skilled and experienced and have knowledge of things I lack knowledge of. They could have shared the knowledge of safety or whatever and maybe even have prevented a close call or accident that might of happened. I personally hate hearing of accidents and would do whatever I could to prevent them.

I guess what I'm really trying to say overall is that we are all human, we all start some where, we all make mistakes. If I have offended, mislead or misinformed you, I'm sorry. If you have had a good laugh mocking me, good on ya, I'm sure you needed it, your welcome. I guess internet bullies are not just in high school.

End of rant.....

Summits and topping out are optional but going home is mandatory.

Never let what negative people say or think influence you as a person or climber.

Live to climb,
Climb to live,
Josh Kass

Avoiding danger is no safer in the long run than outright exposure.... Life is either a daring adventure or nothing.
Hellen Kellar

Perry's Layback 11a The Grand Wall

Popeye and the Raven 10d Trad/Sport

Below left , Local boys do good 11a, Below right 10b trad traverse, The Grand Wall
Kangaroo Corner 11a Trad

Wicked Wanda WI4+ 07/03/2009

2009-03-08T11:31:00.003-06:00

I worn pink panties on this day ! Shit this climb is intimidating ! and a stiff WI4+ !

Grotto Canyon 27/02/2009

2009-03-03T13:33:00.004-07:00

Did a bit of mixed climbing at Groto Canyon, Grant P. and I climbed Grotto Falls WI3 and I just clipped the chains at the belay station. Then we moved to His WI4 and i lead a mixed line to the left of it, maybe M5/6. Then Grant lead Hers WI4 and i top it and the mixed climb Skecth and Sniff M6 to the left of Hers. Nice sunny day warm temps and a good day otu in the hills.

Bourgeau Righthand WI4+R 12/05/2008

2009-03-03T13:12:00.003-07:00

First ice climb of the season and fresh back from Nepal. I didn't lead any of the climb, i just felt like getting my ice "legs" before i started to lead fro the season. It was a great climb and on the list of to climb again but on lead next time.

Step Right Up WI3 /+ 12/26/2008

2009-03-03T12:55:00.004-07:00

Nice sunny day On Step Right Up WI3 /+. Climbed with Mark H., Grant P., Joe and Lou. Nice day out in great weather on a nice easy climb with good company. Love it !

Meltout WI3 01/04/2008

2009-03-03T12:33:00.004-07:00

Went to climb Meltout WI3 with Chris S. temps were up and down. The climb was realy wet and we got just that, wet! It was a nice climb with great company !

Moonlight WI4 12/22/2008

2009-03-03T12:21:00.002-07:00

This is Moonlight WI4, It was -27 /-30 this day and it was like climbing vertical glass! Hard to get ice screws in without cracking the ice and hard to climb due to having to swing very softly nad worries of the ice falling down on me, cracking and would the protection hold a fall? I froze my hands and feet hanging out at the hanging belay for 2 hours! I had serious screaming barfies, worst i have evr had ! Fun ?! Climbed with Juan from Chili.

Aqaurius 12/12/2008

2009-03-03T11:57:00.004-07:00

Climbed Aqaurius in the Ghost, WI4 but i feel it was in WI4+ shape, very thin and not much ice for the last 30 meters. The last 10 Meters had no ice at all ! Grant lead that thank god, as he did half way up it ! Lost of snow fell during the day and I set of a small avy on the way out. We climbed throuth spindrift, cool temps.

Island Peak 6189 M and Ama Dablam 6858 M

2008-11-25T15:27:00.004-07:00

This trip ended in illness and tradgy. I will not be post anything more on this climb. RIP Wei.

Tharpu Chuli 5663 M Annapurna Sanctuary

2008-11-25T15:14:00.004-07:00

Tharpu Chuli 5663 M

Summit ! That is Annapurna 1 , 8091 M behind me so I look as if Im not even on a summit ! A beautiful summit in the center of the sanctuary.

Summited with a friend and no sherpa help. Great climb ! 16 days long.

Earl the mountain goat

2007-12-13T11:34:00.001-07:00

Linda Ice Nine WI4 11/24/07

2007-12-13T10:55:00.000-07:00

Very cold day out in the mountains ! It was -27 or so and the ice was very hard and bit brittle on the lower pitches but got much better the higher we got. It was my first day back out in the mountains from a rest period that I needed and I was feeling rested and weak. Mark lead the whole day as I was not feeling up to it.
Frozen Lake Louise, a nice walk across it.

A view from the trail of whats to come...
Almost at the bottom pitch. The first couple pitched were WI2 and ten a couple WI3 and the last couple WI4.

Beautiful day out there !
Hi Mom.
We soloed the first pitch, well mark did I was having problems with my new crampons and very sore, weak calf's. Not to mention some screaming barfies( frozen hands) so about 3/4 of the way up I had mark drop a rope for me.

The start of the WI3 pitches.
Mark broke about an inch of his pick off at the bottom of this pitch. Hard ice and old picks not a good combo.
A look back down....
Waz up....... :+)

Mark hanging out at the belay

This is Earl, the mountain goat. We named him, he just looked like an Earl. He was about 30 feet from me when i came around a corner. He just looked at me, like what are you doing here?, hung out for a bit and off he when up the cliffs. Very cool!

This was the walk back to the car across the lake after our epic decent of down climbing , lost tool, riped jacket and gaiters and a 40 meter rappel into the dark. Do the ropes touch the bottom??? yes they did. A great day out in the mountains with a good friend.

Mt. Baldy 1st scramble 09/07LOL

2007-09-08T22:56:00.000-06:00

The answers are out there somewhere...

Maybe up here?

Spent the night in Canmore to

wake up to low cloud cover and high humidity. So Pete and I spent the day climbing at Grassi lakes and then off to Mt. Baldy in Kananaskis Country. Cold damp morning climb but a great hike up Baldy with great views and nice weather for the trip.

Victoria North Attempt 06/07

2007-07-13T13:43:00.000-06:00

bad weather foiled Jeff and i's attempt on victoria North. We made it to just below the col but the weather was teling us to retreat from the hill. Another great day in the mountains with a good friend.

Mt.Hector 04/02/07

2007-06-03T20:58:00.001-06:00

Summit !

Pete hauling his load. This guy is a sherpa!

And Pete's load laying out in all it's glory.

Mt. Hector still off in the distance, waits for the summit party on route.
This is Little Hector.

Had to stick to the rocks as the snow was super soft due to the really warm, no hot, weather

There was some awesome avalanche action coming off of Little Hector all day. We sat and watched a size 1 come off this face while we had lunch.

A long way still to go...

The slog on and on and on and on and on and on...

Almost there now...

Some how it got turned to B/W but they still made for good pic's.

This me just below the summit pyramid.
This is right below the summit and the last picture my camera made. Dead batteries so no summit picture. Pete got one of me so I will post that later.

Tangle Falls VSI 3, May 06, 2007

2007-05-26T20:06:00.000-06:00

Tim B, Andrea and myself slept in on our go for the Skyladder route on Andromeda but I went for a ramble up Athabasca and later we all went to Tangle Falls to climb some vertical slush on May,6, 2007. The next day Tim and Andrea topped out on Skyladder as i was feeling ill and stayed behind.

Yup vertical slush!

Mt. Joffre Solo summer ' 04

2007-04-30T20:19:00.000-06:00

I finally got to the summit of my first Rocky Mountain in the summer of ' 04. After the four previous attempts it felt good to bag it and solo at that. I had tried in winter solo, spring solo and with a friend and then got it in summer solo. I learned a lot about the snow pack in the Rockies and that was as good as a summit on every trip.

It's a ways back there.... looks can be and are deceiving. I just kept going and going and going and it never seamed to get closer.
Loved being here by myself, the weather was perfect and I felt great !

Well my first Rocky Mountain summit picture ! I spent about 2 hours up here just eating and hanging out. I really didn't want to leave but did make my way all the way out to the truck the same day. It took me 29 hours car to car with a bivi at Aster Lake.

The Canmore 500

2007-04-22T19:43:00.000-06:00

Chris, Steve and I set off for Canmore for the weekend, fun. We started with a summit of Chinamens Hat and then off to the bar. Much fun had by all.

The boys making the way up in less than perfect conditions but still good times.

Steve almost there.

Chris coming up on the summit.

A look over the edge...

Summit with Steve on the right.

The next day we went climbin at Grassi Lakes. I lead a 5.8, slowly, in wet boots. The rock wasn't to warm either and it made for some cold hands.

Finishing up on some top rope fun.

The next morning we got a good look at the summit of the day before last. And were off.

The Twins Attempt 07/04/07

2007-04-07T16:08:00.000-06:00

Mark, Ahnah in the backgound behind and between us and I off to climb The Twins... So we thought.

The North Bowl of Andromeda.
Ahanh pulling sled with ease on the flat tongue of the Athabasca glacier.

Ahnah slept at the foot of the tent, as usual.

She also stole Chris and Lisa's sausage, little thief.
A few parties of ACC'ers passed by in the morning. We were less motivated than these folks.
Morning Chris.

Dude's
Goose.

Avy's started pouring off Little Snow Dome just as we were getting on our way. The camp was far from danger.

Ahanh wanting to get going..?
More Avy's... This is a good sequence of two Avy's.

WoW !
Ahnah did very well on the flats and slight inclines but she had problems with the steeper parts. Many with the switch backs sharp turns.

Snow Dome's Ice Cliff you passed on route to the head wall that leads to the Columbia Ice field proper.

Don't hang out here.

Clear of the Ice Cliff we stopped for a moment. You can see the switch backs that make up the trail up the Head Wall. I turned back at the bottom of the first turn you can see. The dog was over packed, My boots were not very good for skiing, I was in plastic mountaineering boots, and they gave me a large blister for the first time. Never skied in them before. I was frustrated with my lack of fore site, I had not planned the trip as well as I could have. The dog was working to hard for my liking and over all I was just not in a great space to make any contribution to the "team" in my funk. A learning experience for sure.

This is Ahnah passing under the Ice Cliff after me, about 5 minutes before this happened....

You can see her in the fore ground on the path. The little black dot.

It was a large chunk of ice with the avy lasting for a bit and cleared the path we were just on. You can see that Ahnah is almost to where I was standing by the time it started to clear.

The rest was straight forward so no pic's but I had to haul both the sled and my bag up the last hill to the Snow Coach parking lot and it had no snow on it ! Sucked! Over all a learning experience for me.

Professor's WI 4 29/03/07

2007-03-30T09:55:00.000-06:00

This was my goal for the season ! It was to lead a true WI 4 and it was the 13th waterfall I have ever climbed. I have lead all but 2 and soloed 2. I think that when we climbed Professor's it was in good WI 4 shape with the last pitch being the crux, it was dry too !!! We got a short shower at the top of the third pitch but not to bad. I lead the whole route and think that it was the hardest, longest, best route I have climbed on Ice. The first and third pitches were WI 3+, the last pitch was WI4 and the rest were WI3. I had a great time on this climb with Tim B. we had awesome weather and temps that made for great ice. A bit hooked out in spots but not to bad. Thanks Tim for great day.

Tim B. at the top of the first pitch.
Me.

Rock and Ice at the bottom of the second pitch.
The Third pitch was a bit wet at the top. What a nice curtain !

Taking a load off behind the curtain.

And I'm off up the third pitch.

Almost wet now ...

I loved this short 4th pitch it was great ice to climb and Fun !

A better look.

Up close... some ice formations on the waterfall were cool.

Tim and I.

The lady sent me a text message at the bottom of the fifth pitch, 143 babe.

This is the last 6th pitch and the crux of the climb. This is the longest hardest lead I have done to date. It was the 13th waterfall that I have ever climbed ! 11th lead. Oh Lucky #13.

It's 40 meters tall.

This is a good perspective of the size of the climb.

Got Climbing? eh!

This was my commit point, go up or go down and of course I went up.

Tim up top, thanks for the belay brother.

I took some pictures of the rap down from the top pitch. A look down, down, down...

OOOOO yaaa!
Sweet !!

Bye Tim.

What a day !
tim shot me side ways for a sec on the last pitch and thought he had pressed play again but fat fingered it. O well.

Loonie

2007-03-27T20:02:00.000-06:00

Lake Loonie, '06, I watched this guy fish most of the day a way.

he has got a fish in his mouth in this picture.

The Posse

2007-03-27T19:35:00.000-06:00

My best half , Charity.

With the Mom in Law, Deb.

Mom 143

The Gang ...

Malia Ma LOOO

Kaleo

Ka'eo

Mt Baker from the air

2007-03-27T19:14:00.000-06:00

Got a good view of Mt. Baker when we flew to Vancouver last summer. Skiied there as

a kid but have never gone to climb it. Hummm??

Ice Caves, AA Glacier Toe

2007-03-23T23:31:00.000-06:00

The face of ice.

Ice Caves, AA Glacier Toe

2007-03-23T23:17:00.000-06:00

Large boulder with a skylight shot from inside an ice cave at the toe of the AA Glacier 2006.

A Road Ram

2007-03-23T22:55:00.000-06:00

That thing got a Hemi?
This guy was on the highway just before the "Big bend" 10 mins before the Columbia Icefield and just past the Weeping Wall.

Mt. Hector Attempt 22/03/07

2007-03-23T19:27:00.000-06:00

Me and Tim B. went for hector and found good times, high winds but no summit. Mind you we would have been able to see nothing up there as it was clouded in all day.
Tim tried with out ski's and found out the snow pack was deep.

Tim up through the rock bands.
Our first stop for food and drink.
A look around, this was as much sun as we got this day.

I lead the whole way but didn't mind. I'm a stronger skier than Tim so i paved the way.
Howz it brah dah !
And we are off after a brake.

Just about to crest the ridge to the glacier .. so we thought. It was another 2 Klms.
As you can see here. You should see the summit here but the clouds are blocking it. It is to the left of the rock ridge and about another 4 hours.
Fruit by the foot makes Tim go yum.

We we bailed on the summit due to weather and time for the ski out. With Tim being a newbie it would have been a hard ski out for him/us by head lamp so I dropped this cornus and another cliff and we skied out. Good times had by all.

Tim is in the pic below, can ya find him ?

Ok here he is. Above. Tim did really well for a guy who has only ski in the back counrty and 6 times at that. And me saying until later Hector, I'll be back.

Above first is the scoop and me dropping a cliff.

Bear Spirit WI4 / M7 20/03/07

2007-03-22T23:53:00.000-06:00

Topping out on Bear spirit Finally ! The first time I came here it was above my ability level but now is my limit. I hit my ice tool and dropped it as I was placing an ice screw on my first lead so Mark lead it and I lead it after that. We did laps on it and the mixed route all day. we were the only people there this day. Awesome !

It was SOOO much bigger than when I was hear in December.
Dead vertical !

I was climbing NO Love M7 on top rope after the lead. It's a fun route with a nice transfer to the ice. To bad I got to pumped to finish the route.
This is Hocus Pocus M7 as well.

Hocus Pocus.... M7 again.
A look up as the sun made peak out. Beautiful !!
" The Cathedral" a look up on the inside of the waterfall or around back what ever.

Behind again.
Mark on his lead, he is getting really good now with strong technique.
Nice new M10 crampons Mark. ooooo shiny !!!!

Mark Leading.

Me leading the route

The rappel down. Weather changes ?

Hanging out on the edge....

Mt. Wedgemont 93/94? "The Start"

2007-03-12T23:37:00.000-06:00

This was my first summit. I was 16 I think? If you have been climbing for a while you can tell from the slings and the purple MEC pants LOL It was a bit ago. The other guy is Braden my first climbing partner, I miss him now as good partners are HARD to come by.

This pic is from my second summit The Lions, or was it my first ? Now that I have the pics and think about it ... it was my first. I'm way younger here than above. Any way I started young.

This one is from the glacier on Wedge 1993-94 ??. My mom found these and fixed this one up.... I guess but you get the point. MAN DID I KNOW NOTHING ABOUT MOUNTAINS THEN. I'm still learning and hope to until the day I die.

Five 7 Zero WI4- / WI 3+ 03/04/2007

2007-03-06T21:46:00.000-07:00

This day was awesome with + temps and great climbing, other than it was vertical slush! for real ! I would grade the climb a WI3+ as it was a soft (no pun intended) WI4 when we climbed it. This was also marks first WI4 lead. Well done brother !

This is Five 7 Zero WI4.
AHHHHH !
1st pitch Mark was given'er on lead.
The love of an Ice tool.

Me rapin down.

Mark isn't falling, although it looks that way but he's rappelling.

Boarder Bluffs, Ghost Valley 06/?

2007-01-28T11:37:00.000-07:00

I took this when we reached the car on the way home. An inpending storm on the way. This is a colour picture and was taking at about 4:00pm. in the spring/summer.

Hey troop, Adam, Alison and Charity.
????
The Real Big Drip a WI 6+ still in shape in the spring.
Adam, Charity and I with "The Snooky Doo" Ahnah in the background.
Thirsty Ahanh? Sharing my H2O with my dog.
We are heading to the small cliffband at the bottom of the big one. The Boarder Bluffs.
Beautiful place. Rock in summer and Ice in winter.
Going up...
Hi Beav. your so pritty.
The gang taking a rest.
Wicked Wanda another ice climb in the area. It's aWI 4+ I can almost lead that.
Leading the route for the others to top rope on.
Taking a look...
What form ... Haha.
I don't look happy here but trust me I am !!!
Adam attentively belaying. Thanks dude.
The climb is to the tree at the top. It was agood climb ,fun but not to challenging.
This guy was all messed up ! It was his first day out and it showed...Ha ha lol
Hangloose brah da.
Sneaky sneaky.
Flaking out the rope and had a knot in it. best catch tose on the ground.
Great picture of Adam. he had fun.
Double vision.
The Snooky DOOOOOOOOOOOO. What a ham.

Grassi Lakes 05/07

2007-01-28T11:27:00.000-07:00

Dave , Kokko and I went for a day of craging at Grassi Lakes. We saw a Mama Bear and her Cub on they way up and down. Beautiful animals !!
Coming down from leading.
David and Kokko.

It's anice spot with a great view of Canmore Ab, bellow. The falls freeze in the wiinter and I have climbed them then.

The Climbers Vocabulary

2007-01-24T20:25:00.000-07:00

Jive... ya dig?.

--M as in M5+ stands for mixed as in ice and rock in the route. Hardest mixed climb, M12.

--WI6 stands for waterfall ice, a pure ice route. Hardest WI8? / 7+.

--The numbers behind them are to grade the degree of difficulty. The higher the number the harder and a + or - just defines that grade more so.

-- Rock grades go, 5.5 through 5.10, at which it adds an a,b,c,d. to each number higher to define it more, 5.10a,b,c,d / 5.13a,b,c,d. The highest rock grade 5.15.

--Commmitment Grade are in Roman Numerals grade Difficulty of approach, descent, length, objective hazard and sustained nature of the climbing.
-- I ) a short, easy climb close to car. No avalanche danger, easy descent.
-- II) 1 or 2 pitches of climbing close to car, No avy danger, easy descent.
-- III) Multi-pitch route at low evevation or 1 pitch with long approach 1 hr + and/or no trail. Several + hours of climbing, most of day to do, Avy danger, winter travel skills, descent by rappeling and/or placing your own anchers.
-- IV) Remote, multi-pitch at elevation, subject to weather patterens, objective hazards and or avy danger, several hour + approach, descent may be on hazardous terrain and/or build your own anchers.
-- V) A long climb, competent party, all day, high mountain face or ending above tree line, sustained climbing, avy danger, objective hazards, long involved approach, high level of climbing experience, winter skills needed to climb safely, descent by multi-rappels from built anchers.
--VI) A long climbing route, waterfall, alpine face/ ridge, very sustained climbing, only best do it in a day, ski and/or glacier approach with a difficult, tiring descent, High objective hazards, higher avy danger, falling seracs, high altitude, possable white out, crevasses and/or remote, a high fitness and experience level needed to climb safly.

-- Ice climbing grades. Pure ice.
-- WI 1) a frozen lake.
-- WI 2) a short pitch of ice with up to a short 80* section, good Pro and anchers.
-- WI 3) Sustained ice up to 80*, good ice, must be able to place pro well, short sections steeper, good resting places.
-- WI 4) A sustained full pitch of off-vertical or shorter vertical (10-25 meters) ice. technical ice, harder to place Pro, run-out between resting places.
-- WI 5) A long strenuous pitch, maybe full rope length (60meters) of 88*-90* ice with few if any rests. Or short (20-40meters) on bad, fetureless ice, good Pro take's excellent technique.
-- WI 6) A full 50 meter pitch dead vertical ice or shorter, nasty proportions. Few if any resting sites, Pro is put in on front points or in awkward positions. Ice quality is variable technical climbing, Technique and efficiency are at a premium.
-- WI 7) A full pitch of vertical ice, thin and or overhanging, technical colume of dubious adhesion. Both diverse and cerative techniques to climb and find protection (pro). Very physically and emotionally draining pitch.
-- WI 8) Worldwide nobody has climbed one but they are out there and maybe someday will be climbed. Climbing knows no limits.
-- X added to a route grade means, fragile, possable collapes while climbing, run-outs usually come along to.
-- R added for thin = runout and or bad Pro not worth trusting.

-- Mixed Grades use alot of rock grading in it, so it is more of a compairison to rock but with crampons and ice tools in your hand and on your feet. So not similar but similar FEEL grading.
-- M4 = 5.8, M5 = 5.9, M6= 5.10, M7= 5.11, M8= 5.11+/5.12-, M9= 5.12, M10= 5.12+/13-, M11= 5.13, M12= 5.13+ .

--"Pro" means protection that you use to tie yourself to the face/route/mountain your climbing.

--"Trad" is to climb with traditional pro or gear. Nuts, Tri-Cams, Hex's, Pitons, Cam's. No bolts.

-- "Gear" is the stuff named above nuts, pitons... it goes in the rock to make anchers.

--"Sport Climb" is a bolted route or has bolts at the top for a top rope system.

--"Alpine Climbing" is a climbing route in a alpine environment possibly with a summit to obtain. More remote and usually with more objective hazards to deal with. More committing than a sport climb at a crag.

--"Crag" is a spot that is close and usually bolted for sport climbing.

--"Pumped" is when your arms feel like they are going to explode from the climb. A long and or hard, overhanging or technical climb will do it to you.

--"Binner" or carabinner are the metal clips that attach's you to the safety system and the safety system to the climb, rock, ice, tree, whatever.

-- "Bubba" aka Barry Blanchard, Canada's leading Mountaineer. Any guy with a bagel named after him needs mentioning. Plain bagel, Peanut butter, Banana.

--"Onsite" is to climb a route first time, walk up and climb it.

--"Red point" is to climb a route after some, a few, a lot, one attempts at it.

-- To "Sandbag" A route is to slowly try and get the moves of the climb while hanging on the rope a lot. Start, fall, work the move, fall, repeat until your up or keep trying.

-- A "Slog" scree, talus, snow. A LONG haul, walk, hike... usually with a heavy pack. Energy sapping, a lot of work with little reward sometimes but sometime it's worth every slipping, tripping, sliding, heavy step.

-- A"Whipper" is a big fall on lead. A run out route, your pro came out (bad placement), belayer let out too much slack/ fell asleep. Can be fun or shit yourself.

-- A "Run Out" is a climb that doesn't have many place's to place a piece of "Pro" making long sections of climbing to do above your last placement. The cause of the above. Not fun.

--

Haffner Creek 07/01/21 // Attempt @ D.T. Motor Inn

2007-01-24T17:23:00.000-07:00

Goodmorning! At the trailhead at... early. Going to David Thomson Motor Inn. A long and fat (lots of ice /thick) route of WI3. It just has a long approach up and over a ridge and up the otherside of the valley to the base of the climb.
Beautiful morning on Yamnuska! Got to love the contrast. I made it to the bottom of the right hand ridgeline and saw our day and thought.... I work tommorro, I worked yesterday, I'm way to burnt for this one right now.
But we got some great views in the morning sunlight. This is me.

Mark. We decided to go to Haffner Creek instead. Where am I pointing???? Maybe Haffner??
At Haffner now, finally.

Mark lead the ice and did a good job, with great form.
Toping out on his first lead on double ropes.
Ya don't stand here long!

Ah... mark !?

Where's uncle Josh?

I went second on top rope to set up a two ropes one on an ice route and one a mixed route.

The new Petzl Nomic icetools are sweet!

We climbed an M8- route that starts with some fun moves out of a roof and up where you see us.

Mark.

Haffner Creek 06/12

2007-01-21T22:06:00.000-07:00

Spent the day with Lynnette Lo getting some great pointers, much thanks to her. We mainly climbed ... ? something Half a Gronk M5+. I met Rob Owens this day and didn't know it for about a month ! Nice guy. When I was watching the '05 Ouray comp video on Petzl's site. He hed never seen a pound in ice pro/screw, I'm guessing that was on a rack. "I like options in the mountains" was my reply but it really rarely comes out.

Plant life and Larch Valley

2007-01-19T20:53:00.000-07:00

Marrmot in Larch Valley

2007-01-19T20:51:00.000-07:00

Cute little thing

2007-01-19T20:48:00.000-07:00

great shots!

2007-01-19T20:44:00.001-07:00

I took these on the way home from climbing Mt. Temple. They were just on the side of Highway 1.

Love this one !

Ahanh aka The Snooky Doo

2007-01-19T20:41:00.000-07:00

Ahnah is the best "gear" that I have got. She is a P.B. Giant Alaskan Malamute, born In Hay River, NWT. 17 months ago. She still has to fill in but can pull a sled like a hotdam. 200lbs !(that all I have tried) fast not sure how far yet but she has done 11 hour days without problem. Her test is this April when we are going into the Twins and she's on sled. I would like to take her to Mt.Logan's King Trench route. Will see...

Evan Thomas Creek, Snowline WI4 07/01/14

2007-01-18T16:39:00.000-07:00

This was my first waterfall ice 4 lead climb. We climbed the first pitch only due to cold limbs and fatigue from waiting 3.5 hours to get on the climb. It was thin down low, like 15's were hitting rock and had 25mm sticking out. I felt good on the climb but would have like to have had better ice screw placements below me. I placed more screws in hope that the force of a fall would be distributed over more gear. In hope ha! I learned a lot on this climb. This was my ceiling right now and I need more comfort on ice to lead anything more right now. This was only my 9th waterfall I have climbed and I have lead ALL but 2 of them.

110 meters.

I climbed a mixed line next to Snowlinen top rope after I lead the ice.
Mark wanted to hit the ice again on top rope for more comfort.

Watch the ice mark !!!! He had chunks flying at him from the climber on Moonlight WI 4.

A look down... down... down.

Mt.Temple SW Ridge 06/06

2007-01-15T16:27:00.000-07:00

This was Ahnahs (my dog) first trip to climb a mountain. I think she was 10 months old or there abouts. It was also my friend Adam's first mountain and they both did well. It took us 11 hours car to car. That could have been a lot shorter if we had not takin the dog but what fun would that have been?
The SW ridge or Face route takes the lefthand skyline. This was takin in Larch Vally.
And we're off...

Adam with Mt. Deltaform in the background.
Ahnah aka "The Snooky Doo"
Eating something????
The switchbacks start here.
At a girl.

Any amount of snow.. Playtime
Adam climbing the section I had to find a bypass for the dog to get up.
Found one! it's the weakness in the rockband to my right.

Adam just before he fell armpits deep in a snowshrund. The snow bridge to the rock was thin so he went in.
Getin higher...

The Snooky Doo and I on a ledge.
She did very we on the climb. Mt. Lefroy in the background.

Can you find Adam??

Got to have one.
Nice cornice.

Footsteps to the summit.
Rock on with your bad self brah dah...
The Snooky Doo's first summit picture!!!!!!! 11,624 ft.
Ya I know, got to have one or two.
Adam was amped !!!

To bad this one is blury it would have been nice.

Yup nap time. Wish we could do that.

One more of this angle. This one has no footsteps in the forefront

A look down..... down .... down.
Beautiful day!!!!!

Heading home.

Sometimes we had to stop and help her out a bit.
Mt. Fay in the background.
Not that way Adam.

What am I doing here???

Yup my owner is nuts!!
Ok...
Oh, ah ,ur , ya ok i got it.
Almost down ...

A look back.

Mt. Huber attempt 05/06

2007-01-11T20:07:00.000-07:00

This was a great weekend spent with my two loves, my lady and the mountains. This kind of stuff really isn't her thing but she made a good go of it. We spent a night at the E.P. hut, a wonderfully beautiful Canadian land mark. Our high point was just past the Wiwaxy gap on the ledges traverse. By the time we had sat out the 3rd or 4th passing snow storm she was done. All was not lossed as we got to spend some really good time together and got see the Lake O'Hare area.

Mountain girl.
Climbing girl.

Lake O'Hare from the Wiwaxy Gap.

Athabasca via Silverhorn 08/06

2007-01-11T12:52:00.000-07:00

"Hang loose bra". Flyin Hawaiian
The Route leads left then up the ramp to the col..

The North glacier icefall .

We made good time up th glacier and the ramp.

Little trail.
The Burgshrund/ cravass I post holed into, full leg!

Above the "Burg" steep eh!
The North Face route is up to the weakness in the rock band. I will be back for it.
The Hourglass route's start bottom left to middle top.
Dam hippies!!!!!! (above)

Lots of pictures of Scott in tow.

I never placed a screw untill I found a crevass up by the seracs and waited for Scott.

I chopped a small ledged at this time.

This group was at the bottom of the route when we left the truck. We had a late start, at 7:30 we left the truck. Still we made good time to the seracs on the route.

This is where Scott wasn't feeling to good. He said he had tingling in the mouth and noise area and his lower arms were weak. He was having a hard time placing one of his tools and hyperventalting. To high to fast? AMS? I made a belay station, chopped a bigger ledge for him and talked to him for a bit. He had some H2O and calmed down a bit now in the relitive safety of a belay. It was getting late... too late to be where we were. The ice face was now a 6'' soft snow over rotton ice face and I didn't want to be here much longer. I asked him if he could climb the next 300 ft as after that the steepness lessens and the rocks were closer. He wanted me to leave him and I refused. I talked to him and said we could pitch the rest out if he wanted. He liked the idea but... I asked for his 2 screws and he had forgoten them in the truck. Soooo this sucks right now and ...??? Ok, I leave one screw ( this is all mental at this point, as if one of these would hold a fall) and he belays me up over the seracs and I place our other screw. I had 2 ,as I always do, and thought we would solo the route. Up Scott came and at this point it was taking way to long, it was way to late and we needed to move. So when Scott got to me I ask how he was feeling and what he thought about just soloing on as it's faster and the screw"s" wouldn't hold a fruit basket in this stuff. So thats when we traversed the top of the face to reach the scree on the right hand side of the Silverhorn. Where we had a good rest and ate. I asked if he was coming to the top and he said... maybe?... I said see you there.

Traverse to the scree.

Summit ridge.
Be happy Scott were safe on the the summit and all is good.

Got to have one of these.

Robson S Face Attempt 08/06

2007-01-11T12:16:00.000-07:00

Scott and I made a go at the South side of Robson via the "ledges" route. I felt good the whole way up and down but was beat by the time we made it back to the car. We had made good time up to where the chains are but it is to bad we found them after being off route for 4 hours. At the end of the bushwhack of death, on the way up at where you go left to the chains across a muddy slid. The well beaten path leads you right at the black cliff band. BAD! I found a bolt and thought that it was where the chains could have been. Scott had troubles with this part as he is not a rock climber. We tried everything to get us and the bags up but it was taking its toll. We decided to go down and around to the Kain Face which was more suited to Scott's comfort and skill level. On the way down I found the real chains and so up we went. To Scott's dislike might I add, dam young guys. We were about 600 m below the hut and Scott was showing sings of fatigue so we stopped to chat. It was a turn around er again. When we got to Kinny Lake we went back to the truck for better sleep and make another go at it the next day. When we woke it was Tokyo town !!!! I love Japanese people. We slept on the grass at the visitors center and woke to Japanese tourists taking picture's of Robson. We had lunch and talked about the plan and Scott really didn't want to go back in to the other side. The plan was now to go climb in the Columbia Icefield area. I will be going back this summer '07 for this route and/or I have been looking at the Wishbone Arete or the BIG E. Ridge stay tuned for more...
A clearing in the " Bushwhack of Death"
Off route, but why the bolt? Alti. route? I will go back to see

The "real" chains was LEFT remember this.

BIG AIR bellow!!! oh the muddy slide is here.
Tired Josh... Up the chains.

Tired Scott...

Good morning Tokyo! Where is Robin W. I know wrong place. LOL
The route takes the slant left in the face.

Junkyards soloing WI3 06/12

2007-01-10T18:58:00.000-07:00

Mark, Dan and I want to play in the Canmore Junkyards. Mark forgot the rope so we soloed around. I wanted to climb a mixed line there but no rope no mix.

Happy boy!

No ropes,

No pro,

No problem !

I lead the Scotish Gully a few days be for this. Thats the top of it in the next pic. Top left.

Grotto Canyon WI4 / M6+

2007-01-10T16:42:00.000-07:00

Spent a great afternoon on His and Hers. My first Mixed lead on the route to the left of Hers M6+ . I was in good company with Mark, whom I've climbed with, and a friend of his Dan. Like I said good company. I didn't feel the ice was in the shape I wanted it to be in for a first WI4 lead. So I lead the mixed route with a rest on the 3rd to last bolt before the ice transfer. The ice was very thin at this spot so I lowered off. Know your limits and climb to live. There was an older female ex- guide for Yam. who lead His and nicely. She was pulling her ropes to leave so we pulled ours up and topped it. It was nice to try some thin ,brittle, scary shit on top rope, not so scary at all.

Hey Dan.

Johnston Canyon WI3 06/12

2007-01-10T16:22:00.000-07:00

Well this was a day to remember!!! An American guy, I've lead WI5, nice new gear, I got one, done one, had one Guy. Failed to lead a 15m WI3, dropped his tool WITH leash, got Elvis, had know idea how to use double ropes, almost severed my rope. It gets better wait. Almost, could have dropped me from the top because he couldn't lead it, so I did. He had takin me off belay!!!! I had my Dasiy done up, call to be lowered ..... call again..... " your NOT on belay" comes from a climber on the climb 60 m to our left. What is "guy" doing? So I pull the ropes and yup not on belay. I shake my head, clear it up with him and down I came to give " guy" a tonge lashin about safety. "Guy" Said it was a style thing. My reply was " Safety is no style thing"....... and a bunch more. I was pissed off ! This "guy" took it so like.... so what ever it ws unreal. Again, he knew a way that a grand wizard ....To say the least "guy" and I didn't get along and the Robson trip I planned for 6 months, I canceled, on the spot. I have been looking at Wishbone or the big E. Ridge on Robson for this summer so I will go back with ????

REACH !!!

This is the lower falls. Very thin with h2o still flowing behind and out from below.
All the dagers still to young to climb. Well the left could be started on the inside and move out on front up higher.

goofin

This is "GUY". My poor rope

Bears Spirit 12/02/06 WI4 / M7+

2006-12-03T18:48:00.000-07:00

This was my first " mixed" climb, it was Hoccus Poccus an M7 + right beside Bears Spirit WI 4. We climbed that as well... well Lynnette Lo did, I tried... and she begain the lesson. As it turns out I'm a much better mixed climber than an ice climber. Have to work the ICE!!! I think because of coming from a rockclimbing back ground I found it much easier to relate and found that my techniqe was MUCH better on rock than ice.

Andromeda Attempt 14/10/06

2006-10-17T20:07:00.000-06:00

Hey, went to climb the North Face of Andromeda with Mark, a new climbing friend from Red Deer and just a kid at 20. We had a good time even though we never got to summit. We found some really cool ice formations in glacial ice cave's at the toe of the AA glacier on route to Andro and that was worth the trip right there. We saw bad weather on the Columbia Icefield from the parking lot, but thought that we should still make a go of it. Gaining the glacier into Andromeda's bowl was fun and kept us alert, same goes for the route finding around crevasses on the glacier. We jumped a 4 foot hole of doom on the way out of the bowl, super cool. We turned around at bottom of Skyladder, the North Face route was still a bit away , 30 min. The wind was constant, the snow started to fall a bit, and the ceiling was dropping. It was do or don't at this point. We talked about just doing Skyladder but decided to bail due to conditions. We didn't really know where the rappel point on the East Ridge was. I was sure I could find it in clear skies but in a white-out? Mark didn't have much in the way of really warm stuff, his bad, and the Athabasca headwall was not in good shape for a decent via that route. So what do ya do?... Bail and play in the ice cave on the way out. Really cool!! I will be going back for the North Face route and the Skyladder route, as it will only be here for a bit longer due to it MELTING AWAY!! Got to love humans. Anyway Mark dropped my OR toque in a crevass and I made him rappel in and get it. He was a good sport about it LOL !!! Joke I didn't MAKE him he just did. Thanks Mark. So we headed home and stopped at a few cool ice cave's and then on the road. Part 1 of ?

Solo Victoria South 06/09

2006-10-03T17:00:00.000-06:00

This is my solo of Victoria South. I stayed at the Abbot hut and climbed the route hut to hut in 4.5 hours. The hut is awsome and the climb a classic must do. It took me 3.5 hour to reach the hut and 1.5 hour to decend to the bus. Total travel time 9.5 hours bus to bus. Spent a day hanging out at the hut, time well spent. Walking the "Sickle" solo unbeleavable. Thanks for the picture John Doe.

Very cool story in front of this amazing hut at almost 10,000 ft.
Getting ready to leave the hut.
The classic Mt. Victoria ridge picture with the summit in the background.

Walking a thin line to an awsome summit.

The Summit !!!!!

Columbia Falls 06/06/23

2006-10-03T16:40:00.000-06:00

Top of Alberta Mom ! Couldn't have asked for better weather for our trip. Not a " bad"cloud for the whole time we were on the Columbia Icefield. Rare for the area. This was my 5th attempt at baggin it and that's good for this peak. As some have gone as far as 14 /15 attempts I've heard. I have tried in fall, winter, spring but got it in summer. Weather is a pain in the area.

This is what happens when you forget to " put the lotion on the skin" and 4 hours to late!!!

The Bivi.
To late! We took a nap on the Icefield for an hour. The best nap I ever had but next time I'll cover up.
Columbia on a perfect day we couldn't have asked for more.

My first look at all 12,000 + ft of Columbia. It just took me five attempts to get it.
.

Well I have bagged it, the big one in Alberta that is all 12,300 ft of it. With Scott and a random Greg. This was attempt 5 and it was good to close the chapter on this mountain as it was getting thick. The weather was awesome and the views beautiful, alpine glow on Bryce and the Twins, shadows of Columbia on Andromeda and soooo much more...

Attempt 6 at anything in the Columbia Icefield 03/06

2006-03-10T18:36:00.000-07:00

This is all the food and gear for 6 days in the Columbia Icefields, it weighed 35 lbs. I worked out all the degree's of travel before hand to prepare for white out conditions.

The mouth of the Athabasca glacier and Andromeda on the left. The headwall up to the Icefield proper looked good.

Athabasca was looking good in the morning sun rise and Kitchener WoW!

The North face of Snow Dome Still has yet to have an accent, wonder why? The Dome glacier in the middle, Snow Dome is left, and Kitchener is right.

I love this face and will at some time make an attempt on it. It's Snow Dome's North East face, on the right side is Slipstream, one of the worlds hardest climbs. Does it look good or what!!

The Dome glacier pours down the valley and the icefall is awesome. The Athabasca glacier and headwall is a great approach.

Athabasca has a great East face that probably see's very little traffic. I will have to make a go of it sometime. On the way home the Weeping Wall looked really good this is the top and bottom. The last photo is just the bottom of it, words don't do it justice and nether do the photo's it's incredible a must see and climb. Happy and safe climbing .

Valley of the Birds 01/21/06

2006-01-29T10:08:00.000-07:00

This is (L)Yellow Bird WI 4 30m and Snowbird M6+ 40m. We climbed the left, right and middle and I was close to trying Snowbird but felt burned out from climbing ice and fiddling around on the bottom of Snowbird that I decided it would be best tried another day. Murry lead which was a nice change and gave me the opertunity to try some stuff that wouldn't have on lead. Gained some more confidence on ice, I think that a WI 4 lead is in my near futere. This was my 3rd waterfall I'd climbed, I felt good and protection placement would be ok on lead I thought. It was a great day and the area is full of ice climbs, rock climbs and mixed climbs. It is a mecca!! I will be back.

AVALANCHE!!!!!!!!!

2006-01-18T16:15:00.000-07:00

The top pictures are of the second avalanche it came from the same spot that the first one came down. The second one crossed Lake Louise, about 1 klm and we were enveloped in the snow cloud, the air movement, then we felt the power of an avalanche with a big push of air. Nothing to push you over but a good reminder of why you should respect the AVALANCHE. The pictures bellow are of the first avalanche a "little" smaller than the first. It didn't cross the lake but had you been cross country skiing you...... Well.... wouldn't have skied home. All but two tourists, a couple had left before the second avalanche and they followed us up the trail and had the same experience we had. They were covered in snow and shocked at the power of an avalanche(as we were). WOW this is something I will not soon forget.

In the lead 05/ 07

2005-12-31T17:11:00.000-07:00

This is me being lowered off a climb I just lead at Grassy Lakes in Canmore,AB in the summer of ,05. I was there with Adam, Jason and Amanda. We all climbed, well Jason couldn't he didn't fit into my harness's. He's a big boy.

Athabasca and Andromeda climb Dec 26, 2005

2005-12-31T15:21:00.000-07:00

This is Scott in the parking lot before we left, he was my climbing partner for this trip. He is a strong climber having summited Aconcaqua, 6962m and a good partner. I enjoyed our botched climb with him.
This is a shot of the snow coach road with the Athabasca glacier in the background. The icefall and the head wall are in the center.
An old snow coach in the snow coach parking lot. It's a old bus on four tracks like a tank. Cool.
Scott leads the way up to the head wall that leads to the AA col. It's guarded by ice fall and seracs.
The route stays left of the ice cliff and up some snow gullies to the AA glacier. As you can see the weather was less than optimal. Not to cold but windy. You can see the bottom of the shooting gallery to the right of the ice fall.
This is me in my klondike pose. The ice fall looks small but I wouldn't want to be underneath it as it's probably 80 ft tall.
This is where we put our crampons on. No ice here but the gully was steep and a little exposed.
On the AA glacier that's Andromeda in the back. The top of the famed Andromeda strain is dead center.
That is Scott scoping for a camp. The three Practice Gullies are to the left. We wanted to climb the middle one.
A look at the AA col
Me pointing at the famous Andromeda Strain in the middle of the face. Maybe one day that will be the route I go back for.

Me again. It is beautiful up here I just love to be in mountains like these.
A last look back before dark set in. The wind was moving a lot of snow around. Beautiful!
Scott and me in the tent before it got REALLY windy. Note the pee bottle yup that's climbing.
Scott holding back the tent walls so they don't rip and leave us with out a shelter. It was funny at this point but got serious and quick. The wind sounded like a jet taking off and felt like a train was plowing into the tent. At one point I was trying to get to sleep and a gust of wind hit the tent bending the tent pole all the way down to smack me in the face well I was laying in my sleeping bag.
Note the mood change. Our facial expressions went from all smiles to serious and quick. It was dark, REALLY windy and it was moving a lot of snow around in the air. We made the call to go down and not wait for the tent to rip before we started down. When we go out of the tent it was near whiteout with about 20 ft visibility with the blowing snow. The wind was so strong it pushed Scott to the ground twice and to his knees three times and at one point I fell into self arrest to save myself from being blown down the exposed gully I found in close to zero visibility. I love that little reflective wand hey Scott.
And this is the boys back in the parking lot safe and still in good spirits. Well better luck next time. We will be back. You can find more pictures and Scotts take on the trip at http://hydrogenplusstupidity.blogspot.com/ . He is a much better writer than I enjoy.